They were delicious, charming and seductive, in the words of Robert Parker, but he also lamented them as preposterously over-priced. By the time they hit store shelves, the stunning 1998s were selling en primeur, drawing in collectors like bees to flowers. The 2000, 03, and 05 Bordeauxall from spectacular vintagesfollowed, leaving estates like Bernard Magrezs Chteau Poumey left with a cache of 97s socked away in their cellars.

Now, a quarter-century later, the 1997 Chteau Poumey is drinking beautifully, showing a bouquet thats a dream for lovers of properly aged claret. Its the kind of wine that caused Parker to declare the year a vintage that I intend to buy.

The best part? Its priced like were still in the 20th centuryand its arriving directly from the chteaus cellars, ensuring the bottles are in great shape for your table tonight.

Bernard Magrez rose to fame in the 80s by bringing a trio of Cru Class estatesincluding Pape Clmentto collectible glory. But his other wines always provide outrageous value.

He built an empire based on high quality, according to Parker, and Magrez employs the same techniques at Chteau Poumey as he does at 100-point icon Pape Clment, which sits just 15 minutes away. With friend and 100-point consulting winemaker Michel Rolland at his side, Magrez always produces the best possible wine, sparing no expense in the vineyard or cellarwhich often boasts custom-coopered barrels tailored specifically for his wines.

That makes 1997 a perfect Magrez vintage: It was a year that rewarded growers and wineries willing to go the extra mile for quality. A warm, humid summer encouraged rapid ripening, but only the most diligent producers won the war against the mildew that often comes with those conditions. Magrez, with his obsessive attention to detail, ensured that the grapes at Poumey were as immaculate as they could be. Twenty-five years later, the proof is in the bottle.