2005 Haut-Brion: 7x 100-Point Scores

Some wines are so brilliant, so transcendent, that just about any attempt to describe them can feel like an affront.

The 2005 Haut-Brion is one of them.

100 points from Robert Parker. 100 points from Jeb Dunnuck. 100 points from Antonio Galloni of Vinous. 100 points from James Suckling. 100 points from Jane Anson. 100 points from Lisa Perrotti-Browns Wine Independent. 100 points from Wine Spectator.

An absolutely perfect wine in every way, wrote Dunnuck. The 2005 Haut Brion is out of this world and certainly one of the finest wines Ive ever tasted.

We have just 36 bottles.

Chteau Haut-Brion, in Pessac-Lognan, quite possibly invented fine wine as we know it today. The storied Bordeaux estate dates back to 1525, though the chteau itself wasnt built until 1549. Founder Jean de Pontac lived 101 years, bearing witness to the reign of kings Louis XII through Henri III.

Arnaud de Pontac inherited the estate in 1649 and, realizing he made better wine than his neighbors, created the first luxury wine by doing something radical for the time: He introduced prolonged barrel aging, took control of distribution, and began charging twice as much.

As a result, Haut-Brions fame climbed to dizzying heights, catching the attention of diarist Samuel Pepys. Pepys was the Robert Parker of his day, and he wrote whats considered the worlds first professional wine reviewa glowing account of Haut-Brion. From there, Haut-Brion entranced English philosopher John Locke, German philosopher G.W.F. Hegel, Benjamin Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson, whose eye for exceptional farming practices did not miss Haut-Brions distinctive soils when he visited in 1787.

Walking the vineyards, Haut-Brions terroir comes alive in the sandy-gravel soils that so impressed Jefferson. The slight slope to the hill provides ideal drainage and sunlight exposure for the 80-year-old vines, which in turn produce the sacred berries that make the chteaus Premier Grand Cru Class just what it isvinified perfection.

Well never forget when the 2005s were released. They were catnip for collectors, and the frenzy drove Bordeaux prices higher than weve ever seen them. The wines were absolutely thrilling, wrote Antonio Galloni in Vinous. Bordeaux expert Jane Anson called it one of the greatest vintages of the past 50 yearseasily my favourite vintage of the last few decades.

Competition for this allocation was fierce, since Jeb Dunnuck just released a 2005 Bordeaux retrospective that praised the Haut-Brion to high heaven. Our small allotment is on its way directly from Bordeaux, with perfect provenance.

A limpid, pure ruby in appearance, with the first tinges of garnet appearing near the rim. Pronounced, gorgeous aromas explode from the glass: fresh florals (most memorably violets), Ferrari leather, Morello and Bing cherries, fresh cassis, and rich earth. The texture is an absolute harmony of perfection: pure silk on the palate, with ripe, powerful tannins balanced by plentiful acidity and tremendous flavors of black and red currants, fresh mushrooms, red and white flowers, crushed river stones, Black Forest cake, vanilla beans, and fresh raspberries. The perfect accompaniment to a lightly-seared A5 Wagyu or black truffle pasta. Drink now2050.

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