96pts, $22: As dense and powerful as French reds get

No French reds can top the pure power and inky depth of the Ctes du Roussillon, and Domaine de Rombeaus stellar 2019 Elise Vieille Vignes is one of the greatest red-wine bargains out there.

There might be no bigger red-wine secret in the South of France than the Ctes-du-Roussillon. The sun-baked, windblown regionawash in ancient vines, stony vineyards, and long-living fortified dessert winesis a treasure-trove for lovers of inky powerhouse reds, which is exactly why 100-point vintners like Michel Chapoutier have settled there.

But Domaine de Rombeau is no recent arrival. The estate is one of the most storied in the region. Its owned by the de Fabrgue family, whose history in the Roussillon dates back to the year 1263. They laid the first stone for Domaine de Rombeau in the early 1700s, and theyve now been farming and making wines in the Roussillonwhere vines were first planted in the 7th century BC by Greek sailorsfor six generations (since 1850).

This part of France is home to some of the oldest vines in the country, and the Elise cuve hails from plantings that date back more than a century. In this area, the warm winds whip off of the Mediterranean, and cold winds brutalize the vines from the Atlantic, and they offer vines protection from disease, as the unforgiving sun of the Midi brings the grapes to exceptional ripeness.

The result, in the case of Elise, is a powerhouse red of 15.5% ABV. Composed of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvdre, the grapes are hand-sorted and fermented in temperature-controlled vats before maturation for one year in new French oak barrels. Now, five years after harvest, this is showing beautifully, ready to take on a tomahawk ribeye, or just keep you warm on a cold winters night, with Reinbert de Leeuw playing Satie on the stereo.

Opaque purple-black center, with dark staining tears at the rim. Aromas of warm blackberry, blackcurrant, dried blueberry licorice, sweet pipe tobacco, and crushed rocky soil fill the glass. The backdrop offers clove, allspice, sweet incense, and black olives, along with resinous herbs and dark chocolate. Rich, bold and mouth-filling, with excellent density and polish. The tannins are soft and ripe, the palate is broad and almost velvetyyou get a lot of wine in the glass for this price, especially given the length and complexity of the finish. Drink now2033.

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