If you think that sounds like Chablis or Sancerre, youre right. But it also describes todays 2022 Domaine Papagiannakos Assyrtiko, which is without a doubt one of the great white-wine bargains youll find.

Assyrtiko (Ah-SEAR-tih-koh) is the signature white grape of Greece, and Domaine Papagiannakos has been making wine near Athens for over 100 years. Their estate vineyard is perfectly situated to grow grapes of incredible elegance: Facing north rather than south, the vines escape the blistering Mediterranean sun, which allows the Assyrtiko to ripen more slowly, developing complexity and finesse in addition to bright fruit.

The moderating influence of waterAttica is on a peninsula that juts into the Aegean Seaalso helps tame high temperatures, allowing the grapes preserve their vibrant acidity. The vines are dry-farmed, forcing their roots to spider deep into the stony earth to find water and nutrients. The winemaking regimen employs light skin contact and lees-stirring to add texture and weight to the finished wine.

Were sure that if it came from a better known region it would be a household name (and cost twice as much) but because Greek wines can be a mystery to many Americanstheyre imported in small quantities and often feature unfamiliar grapesbottles like this can fly under the radar to all but wine obsessives.

For Wine Access members, thats a very good thing because weve got this Assyrtikobristling with lime peel, sea spray, and gorgeous mineralityfor just $20 per bottle on cases. And youd be wise to follow the lead of our Master Sommelier, Sur Lucero, and take home a case of this every year. Its a wine that you can always rely on at dinner, whether youre grabbing a bucket of fried chicken or shelling out for some wood-fired branzino.

Well be going long on this one ourselves, and you shouldnt miss the opportunity to put a case in your cellar as well.