Halpin’s NDA Cab from a Napa Mainstay

How many household-name Cabernets would you say there are in Napa? Halpin asked us. Rock-solid icons you can find at every steakhouse, anywhere in the WORLDand you know are always gonna hit the spot.

We ticked off Duckhorn, Hall, Caymus, Pride. Bingo! he said. Thats the level of winery that made this badboy right here.

Hey Sal, whats the soup du jour? Halpin asked the waitress, as she filled his icewater.

Its French for leave me alone and let me do my damn job, she said, without looking up.

He smirked and turned to us. They know me here.

Lucky them.

It was a Tuesday, just before noon, and wed been summoned to Buttercream Bakery at the edge of downtown Napa. The 75-year-old haunt is famous for its donuts and straight-from-the-sixties decor, but Halpin wasnt there for the pastries. We found him bellied up to the counter alongside a cast of old-timers, perusing the bright pink lunch menu.

I freaking love this place, he said. Aside from the dirt, it seems like the only thing in this valley that never changes. I mean, $10.99 for a burger?! Ive paid that for a peach!

The next time Sally passed, Halpin ordered a patty meltbest in the universe, he promisedand we followed his lead. After a quick digression that swerved from the properties of melted cheddar to the virtues of Bunn commercial coffeemakers, he got to his point.

How many household-name Cabernets would you say there are in Napa?

We started ticking them off. Opus One, Harlan Estate, Screaming Eagle

Halpin cut us off. No, no, no. Not cult Cabernets that only the one-percenters and wine cognoscenti know, he said. I mean household names. I mean rock-solid Cabernet you can hang your Stetson on, pardon the mixed metaphor. I mean Cab you can find at every steakhouse, practically anywhere in the WORLDand that you know is always gonna deliver.

We thought for a second, then started a new list. Duckhorn, Hall, Caymus, Pride

Bingo! he exclaimed. Now youre in the ballpark, he said, pulling out a shiner. Thats the kind of icon that made this badboy right here.

Without a word, Sally skated over, plinked two spotless Riedels down on the counter, and whipped a sleek black Laguiole out of her apron. Before we could process what was going on, Halpin was pouring.

He sensed our bemusement. Like I said, they know me here.

Our noses were still in the glass when the patty melts hit the counter, and we libated. His 2022 Napa Valley Cabernet is excellent, showing lifted aromas of fresh vanilla, violets, ripe plums, black and red cherries, graphite, cloves, blueberries, and sage. Its bold and super-smooth on the palate, with tons of black fruit riding on lively acidity. The ripe tannins carry cranberries, boysenberries, cocoa nibs, baking spices, fresh herbs, leather, and pencil lead through the finish.

Halpin had hard-sold the patty meltworth the hypebut didnt have to say a word about the wine. We shook on it there and then. Plates clean, glasses dusted, Halpin slid the cork and bottle over to us, and dropped a fifty on the counter. When Sally picked it up, he slapped another $20 down. She smiled.

So theyll keep putting up with me.

Medium ruby, with an even appearance throughout. Rich, lifted aromas of fresh vanilla, violets, ripe plums, black and red cherries, graphite, cloves, blueberries, and sage. Bold on the palate, with fresh acidity and ripe, chalky tannins, backed by flavors of fresh blackcurrants, toast, mocha, mint, wild berries, cedar, and crushed gravel. Lively acidity and ripe, firm tannins are matched with flavors of cranberries, boysenberries, cocoa nibs, baking spices, fresh herbs, leather, and pencil lead. The perfect pairing to a spaghetti Bolognese, mushroom risotto, or an aged Cheddar cheese. Drink now2029.

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